Today started at 4.30am when Sarah woke me up saying she could hear the sea lions back again. In the dark we could just make out the shape of a large rock- or sea lion in the water- and another one on land snorting loudly. They plonked themselves on the beach 150 yards away from us. Every half hour or so a cascade of grunts and snorts would come our way but apart from one brief move towards us they stayed put. We tried to go back to sleep with the tent door partly open and would check they were still there every time there was a grunt. When we finally got up, we made breakfast and took down the tent before our new neighbours noticed. After staring at us for a while, they flopped back into the water, their gigantic bulk dissapearing into the liquid. Their cobra like heads craned up for one last look before they disappeared off.

Jeff Hancock, from Dutch Harbour, Unalaska warned me on the phone that the weather here doesn’t read the forecasts; it changes many times as if on a whim. Today perfectly illustrated that. The forecast was for Eastetlies about 15 knots. It started with thick fog and a light northerly breeze and we thanked our luck. Within 90 minutes it had picked up to over 10 knots and proceeded to swing around to almost every direction possible, varying from 2 knots to 20. The advantage of the stronger winds was that it blew the fog away, treating us to a view of snowy volcanos on Seguam, cloaked in a veil of mist.

To start with the current was running South -ish as expected, at a maximum of about 2 knots. I was pleased to find that it turned about 2pm which is pretty close to the predictions and gives me more confidence when planning for future crossings. .. including the next one which is the biggie; 37 miles.

It was a long old crossing; at times we moved quite slowly with wind and current hindering progress. Hundreds of birds kept us company including petrels running on the water and albatrosses who landed right by the kayaks during the lulls.

We decided to head for a beach on the South coast hoping it would be sheltered from all the NE winds we’ve been having. As we approached it a20+ knot offshore wind sprung up from nowhere and it was a battle to reach the beach. Spray was being carried towards us from the surf which was a worrying sight but it was just 1 breaker that you could avoid with good or lucky timing! A wave broke on Sarah on her run in but she braced into it and rode it to the beach with style.

We were very happy to land on Seguam Island after 10 and a half hours on the water and 28 miles. Tomorrow is definitely a rest day and we look forward to having an explore.