The last 5 mile paddle today is my favourite of the trip so far. The steep cliffy section had us craning our necks upwards to gaze at layers of contorted rocks then glancing down at small pinnacles dotting the shore. We passed the giant rusty hulk of a ship wreck washed up onto a tiny rocky beach, and an amazing waterfall spewing a single concentrated jet over a precipice from 200 metres up. We smelt the pungent colony first, then heard the familiar snorting and roaring. Finally we rounded a corner to see the brown sea lions lounging on their spiky rock, snoozing or picking a fight with their neighbour. Otters popped their heads up to take a look at us as we cruised by. Usually they disappear into the deep once we get within 50 metres or so but one fella today just stayed on his back with his 4 feet up and his tail up in the air staring curiously at us for several minutes until we paddled away.

The wind and swell started off lively this morning and dropped through the day. Sarah was able to sail with a light side wind this morning. After lunch our course gradually changed from East to North until we had a headwind for the last stretch but we barely noticed because it was so beautiful.

Unalaska reminds me a bit of Amlia Island although on a grander scale and with more indented bays. I chuckled yesterday as our beach was full of pretty green pebbles just like the ones I have carried all the way from Amlia in my kayak. The low clouds that hide the peaks are the same as on Amlia too, maybe that’s part of the geology?

Keirron Tastagh and George Shaw kayaked this section from Herbert island to Unalaska (in the opposite direction to us) a couple of years ago. Keirron kindly showed me where they camped and shared other information before our trip. Coincidentally we’ve camped in the same place as them on the last 3 nights although I think they had strong offshore winds on this section and we’ve had great weather for the last 2 days.

Sarah caught a black bass on the way into the bay tonight. As I was filleting it, a red fox came to within 15 metres of me. I think he might have gone for the fish if I hadn’t shooed him away. He didn’t go far. He found the guts and did a wee on them (why? ), then took a liking to the head which he started munching on right besides us.

Now we should really be asleep getting rest for tomorrow but it’s such a lovely evening and otters are in the bay outside the tent. Another great day. “Only” 20 miles paddled, not a big day considering conditions were good but we’re enjoying our time on Unalaska. It’s a little under 50 miles to Dutch Harbour from here.