A full life is full of contrasts and this Aleutian journey is certainly that for me. One day, the sounds of the sea and wind fill our ears and minds, we’re cooking on a tiny campstove and sleeping with only thin canvas separating us from the heartbeat of the natural world. The next day we are amongst people, cars, restaurants and the busy hub bub of America’s busiest fishing port.

When we left Nikolski we spent 2 days of searching for hot springs and trying to create pools to mix the ‘too hot’ thermal water with the ‘too cold’ stream water to make a warm bath!  As we moved on, the weather was mostly very good so we covered the 150 miles or so in 8 days. The hills have turned from brown to green and most days it feels a little warmer than a month ago. We enjoyed paddling close to shore, craning our heads up at cliffs of craggy black lava flows, punctuated by noisy white cascades tumbling down in ribons, or pouring out in one solid spout. The clouds parted to reveal jagged snowy peaks of volcanos – both extinct and active.  Otters, sea lions and whales escorted us into Dutch Harbour, part of Unalaska town (on Unalaska island). Then suddenly our eyes were drawn from the rich marine life to fishing boats and the outlines of buildings; a big hotel with a red roof, a supermarket and a gas station.  Unalaska is by far the biggest town in the Aleutian islands, with 5000 people living here year round, and up to 15000 here during the main fishing season. Cars seemed to be moving very fast on the first paved roads we’ve seen since Adak. Some local kayakers paddled out to meet us and we enjoyed a chat and a laugh with them, feeling a shared connection immediately. We were taken to an appartment with a lovely hot shower and heating, we cooked a meal in a kitchen, logged onto the internet and slept in a bed. I love the transition to comfort, mod cons and people although I also miss feeling the moods of the weather through a thin nylon veil. There is a satisfaction from making a meal with just the ingredients you have in your kayak, plus whatever you can catch or forage. That’s not to say I haven’t enjoyed the ‘all you can eat’ seafood buffet at the Aleutian Grand Hotel or the burger and chips at the local fast food restaurant!  It’s been great to get to know some of the locals in Unalaska and we’ve been given the same warm, friendly welcome here as in all the communities along the way.

Roger and Josh showed us around some of the 2nd world war bunkers that litter the hillside above town. They were built very quickly after Unalaska was attacked by the Japanese during the war. The Aleutian museum had a replica baidarka and had dressed a manequin in the gear that Aleuts used to wear when kayaking and hunting. We could feel the seal intestine parkas and the spray decks made from their throats which was really interesting.

Four days has passed quickly in Unalaska and I’m sorry to leave new friends and an interesting town. Equally, I’m looking forward to kayaking east along the chain once more and having our every movement affected or dictated by the weather and environment. We’ll stop at the small community on Akutan island in a few days then it’s a few hops before the Alaskan peninsula. We are almost half way to Homer and the first road to somewhere. Let the adventure contine!

Thanks to everyone here who has offered help, homemade jam, home made mead, taken us out for a meal, let us store the kayaks inside and stopped for a chat. Thank to Lauren Adams and Jeff Hancock for letting us ship things to their address, for a delicious meal and advice. For anyone wanting to kayak, bird watch or take a boat trip from Unalaska, Jeff’s company can surely help you!