We were worried about all the of the above today as we crossed to Unimak island across a busy shipping channel. The wind was stronger than forecast again and the pass was littered with white capped waves big enough to give me a good wash a few times. We chose to cross on the ebb current to avoid rougher wind against tide conditions and to get a push to the east but there were extensive tide rips anyway. Nothing too scary, it was a side wind and Sarah sailed through it all – testament to her improved confidence and skills.

Ugamak was cloaked in a blanket of fog when we woke up and we feared we’d not be able to see any speeding ships in the 4 mile wide shipping channel that we had to cross. Fortunately as we rounded the Southeast corner of Ugamak, the lower slopes of one of Unimak’s volcanos was visible 10 miles away. We could see all the way across and spotted two big ships.

We bounced into the pass and were immediately shot East by a 4 knot current. Our speed was good, our direction not so great as Unimak lay 10 miles to the North and northeast. Gradually the current eased and became more favourable and our course curved round so we’d hit land.

No ships appeared on the horizon during our 90 minutes in the shipping channel but a small dot became a large fishing boat that wizzed past after we were safe.

The wind eased as we approached land and the clouds lifted to reveal the perfect icy cone of Shishaldin piercing the sky at over 9000 feet high. When not grazing up in wonder, our eyes were scanning the land for any sign of bears as Unimak is the first place where we are in danger of not being top of the food chain. The first evidence came when we landed. The black sandy beach is a tapestry of bear footprints. We put the tent up in a clear patch and cooked well away from it. There are no trees here so all our food is in the kayaks. I took extra care not to spill any of my dinner on my face and Sarah was careful not to decorate her clothes.

After a 30 mile day, a 30 mile surf beach lies ahead of us. There isn’t much surf now so we hope that continues for how ever long it takes us to get past the beach.