It’s taken us over 90 days but Homer lies less than 100 miles away. The last obstacle in between us and a successful 1400 nautical mile paddle is a 35 mile crossing to the Kenai Peninsula. Guarded by tidal rips, the Barren islands mark the halfway point. They are both a refuge – a place to shelter or camp during a long crossing, and an added danger,  a rough water magnet that accelerates the wind and the currents. Half a dozen people have warned us about how rough it can get in these islands, one friend going so far as to ask us to take an alternative route. I’m used to tidal waters in Wales, and we are fit for long crossings by now but we will treat these crossings with the respect they deserve. Unfortunately the weather forecast is throwing constant feisty NE winds at us. Today’s forecast was 40 knots, tomorrow is a bit less in the morning and 35 knots in the afternoon. It’s 20 knots after that which doesn’t provide the window we need to jump our final hurdle.

Fortunately we landed on our feet again by landing at Blue Fox Bay Lodge 2 days ago, a cluster of homemade wooden cabins run by Jerry and Colleen for the last 20 years. This is the only building for miles around, nestled into the spruce trees on a corner of Hogg island. They live here with their 2 dogs who protect them from bears that occasionally swim over. Guests come for around 50 nights a year – just the right amount for them to pay their bills but not to have to work too hard. It’s clearly a lifestyle choice for them to be here. They collect rainwater to drink and wash, they have outhouses with windows built in so you can enjoy the view, lettuce, zucchini and tomatoes grow in a canvas greenhouse and the banja (sauna) that we were treated to yesterday was a magical treat. A generator provides power when they need it but most of the time they don’t. We’ve spent 2 days here recharging batteries (literally and metaphorically) and feel refreshed and ready to battle the winds again. They just returned from a resupply in their nearest supermarket which is 80 miles away in Kodiak and the larder is full. We will leave happily with fully bellies and a memory full of fun stories. For anyone wanting to kayak in this area, they have 4 Necky kayaks for rental and they can offer food, lodgings, boat drop offs and fun tales. For those enjoying a tipple, their drinks cabinet is pretty well stocked too! Contact bluefoxbay@gmail.com

We leave here tomorrow morning to head to the north coast of Shuyak. Then we’re hoping for a weather window for long enough to cross to Kenai (in 1 or 2 days), then it’s 1 or 2 days paddle to Homer. With a bit of luck and hard work, we’ll make it in time to have a small celebration, and get back to Anchorage and get sorted in time for my flight on 16th. I’m in that interesting head space where I’m looking forward to going home but am savouring the last few days of a great adventure in an amazing wilderness. We’ve met so many interesting and kind people, had incredible encounters with wildlife and enjoyed just being alive in this wild and remarkable country.