This morning we were camped on such a shallow beach that leaving at high water was desirable! A small push from the ebb current and a wind that swung behind us meant we made quick progress north, playing Russian roulette by taking short cuts inside islands over channels that dry out with alarming speed. Today at least, we got away with it. We stopped for a late lunch of homemade smoked salmon, crackers and dried mango. We were on the rocky intertidal zone for no longer than 30 minutes and the water level dropped almost a metre leaving our kayaks high and dry. It's one of the reasons we chose plastic boats for this trip. We also were dismayed that in the same time the wind had switched direction and we now fought a headwind that increased in strength over the next hour so we were making only 1.5knots progress at one point. Things change quickly here, with no noticeable lull between.

We landed on a small island off Ivik island at pretty much lo w water. A 400 metre portage with the kayaks on our trolley feeling like a better option than paddling on into the wind.

Once on land, in the shelter from the wind, the sea looked like nothing, we couldn't look on it with smug satisfaction thinking look what we battled. We just felt like wimps! But really we knew it was a tiring battle.

The mosquitos are out in force on this island. Bowen inside the tent, i can hear them buzzing outside! I hope i don't need a pee in the night!

The landscape was a little different today, the intertidal zone offering a few more landing options, and the occasional gravel beach breaking up the rocky monopoly.

When paddling, we can identify areas of land that don't get covered by the sea by their black colour, the rocks are covered with a brush of tiny black lichen. Sometimes there is a bed of grass or moss, oftentimes it's just smooth, or jagged, black rock. We are surrounded by birds, pigeon guillemots , eiders, geese, gulls and the occasional loon. We've only seen 3 seals, perhaps because they are hunted here.

On this island there are a few stone circles, obviously made by man, whether in ancient or modern times i don't know. Yesterday our campsite was littered with used toilet paper. There is subtle evidence of man here all around, but we have seen very few people. Its not a well traveled highway and we're enjoying having it largely to ourselves.

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