It felt like we paddled into a different landscape today. As we headed south, Jf excitedly shouted “trees” and pointed at a few pockets of stunted conifers in a nearby valley. As we turned into the narrow confines of Moores island tickle, gentle slopes and a flat plateau were covered in lush green grass and bushes. It was quite a transition from the treeless tundra where low shrubs manage to cling onto the rocky tundra, barely a few inches above the ground.

The tickle bisects the Okak islands, barely 1km wide for most of its 17km length. I expected it to feel closed in and dramatic but the low flanks were shrouded in smoke from forest fires near Nain. I could barely make out the far shore. The forecast temperature today was 27 degrees Celsius and it certainly felt hot and muggy. What a contrast from wearing all my clothes and using two hot water bottles a week ago. A light warm wind gave some relief during the morning and after lunch became a persistent headwind that blasted at us the entire way down the channel. There were no Eddie’s to hide in, no choice but to put my head down and grind it out, watching the green hills slide slowly past, pushing on my feet for extra power. Two black bears scurrying along rocky slopes provided some diversion. That’s 10 polar bears and 10 black bears we’ve seen so far.

After 10km we came to the abandoned village of Nutak. A lone large building was boarded up. A neat line of 3 Plaques listed the names of people moved from the village by the Canadian government decades ago, and showed an apology and an acceptance of the apology from the Inuit people.

We carried on into the wind and an increasingly treed shoreline. “There’s white spruce, black spruce and tamarack”, Frank pointed out.

Landing near another cabin in a woody cove near the southern end of the tickle, Frank collected some green tamarack tips for tonight’s tea. We are about 150km from Nain. We’re not in a rush, we have 30 days food and it’s day 23.

“Careful Frank there’s a second bear”. JF sounded urgent. “he’s right by the shore”. The small skinny polar bear just emerged from behind a rock 50 m away from Frank. We were all on the water, watching a much larger male stride along a low brow. The large bear had been lounging on a grassy knoll when we first spotted it. When he saw us he walked away, then reemerged, and strode casually along the shore. “That’s a big healthy male that ate lots of seals over the winter”, frank said. It seemed like the smaller bear was now moving away from the large bear. He didn’t eat so many seals. “That one’s more dangerous”, said JF. Hungry bears are more likely to take a chance on humans.

Frank had moved offshore and we all watched both bears move slowly but deliberately. The small bear was walking away, looking over his shoulder cautiously. The large one changed course and followed slowly behind. “The big bear could eat the small one”, Frank remarked. “But the small one could probably run away because the big one would overheat so they’re both saving their energy.” We watched the two magnificent creatures for a few more minutes, then turned and headed on our way.

It was another warm day and we were paddling in sheltered waters, so I had my dry suit tied around my waist. The mosquitoes took full advantage, while I was taking photos of the Bears. With my drysuit fully on we continued. The dramatic striated ridges on grimington Island soared to our left. Lower hills undulated to the right. Unlike the outer Coast, there were small sandy or gravel beaches everywhere. A minke whale surfaced 30 m in front of me. And another one surfaced three times after lunch. We had our sights on a cabin we’d been told about and had a relatively short day on the water, covering 27 km. The gray building blended in well. It was tiny, but well made. we removed the usual plywood sheets covered in nails from the door and opened it with anticipation. After we evicted three mice, There’s just enough room for the four of us to sleep and store our things. We’ll put our fence around the kayaks and have a full nights sleep. This afternoon I went for a short walk and collected some labrador tea leaves. While in Labrador…

Today was our windiest day. I held my paddle up in the air and was blown the first few hundred meters. The following wind turned into a side wind as we rounded the corner and started a 6 km crossing to Soapstone island. I had warning of the stronger gusts as darker patches of sea rushed towards us, throwing spray into my eyes and trying to whisk off my hat. Our route took us weaving through islands, changing direction so the wind changed angle, giving us a turbo charge from behind, heaving us sideways or almost halting progress as we crashed up and down over oncoming waves. I enjoyed the chance to work hard, and to figure out the best tactics to get where we wanted to go, staying close to shore in a headwind or ferry gliding across a side wind. These mental and physical puzzles are part of the attraction of paddling trips for me.

The others rounded the NE corner of finger hill island ahead of me and I heard some appreciative noises. Following them, I saw three skinny vertical turrets rising up from a steep island topped with a vertical ridge with obvious horizontal layers. A fan of even sized scree formed the understory. Lush green grass covered a flat ledge lower down. It reminded us all of arizona or Nevada. It’s very different scenery to the rest of the trip and equally jaw dropping. Back on the mainland we followed a steep ridge line down into a narrowing channel. Just a few hundred meters wide with towering walls on either side, it felt like being in the Grand Canyon. The wind funneled through the gap against us but we had the bit in teeth and continued for 7km to a tiny land bridge 50 meters wide and 10 meters tall. It’s an amazing feature and is our home for the night. Andrew, our contact from Parks Canada messaged to say it’s one of his favorite spots and one of the polar bears

I have 1st watch tonight and sure enough Andrew was right. About 9.30pm a large white object appeared around a Rocky outcrop 20 metres behind the tent JF was sleeping in. I grabbed the gun and shouted go away. Go away. Happily the beat immediately obeyed and ran into the water and swam away. The boys all heard me and got up to see the bear swimming away. JF shot a bear banger just to make sure he was leaving.

The wind died around 10pm and my flashlight now shoes to hundreds of mosquitoes as I shine it around looking for much bigger predators. It’s day 21 today.

It seems like we’ve gone through a lot of transitions the last few days. It’s hot! At least by arctic standards. No more hot water bottles during night watches and I was overheating paddling yesterday in my thinnest thermals. It really feels like a different climate. It’s pleasant, except for one thing … Of course that brings bugs. They’re not so bad if you keep wrapped up. Yesterday after landing, I walked around in my thermals, so they could fully dry but thin merino is no match for long mosquito stingers and I soon added long pants and a jacket.

The landscape too is taming. The mountains are still dramatic with rugged ridge lines and steep cliffs towering above us. They’re beautiful, but suffer from their proximity to the even more dramatic Torngats. They’re lower with more green meadows and less bare bones. In the Torngats, contorted ridges, stark intrusions, active scree slopes and gravity, defying cliffs, make you feel like you’re watching them being created.

And we’re back in the land of people. Seeing Joey, Belinda and friends at Hebron was a wonderful surprise. We realize we’re now in boat driving distance from Nain and other communities further south. Yesterday we had a relaxed morning at Hebron. I woke rested after a full nights sleep in a cozy cabin. Our friends let us use their big propane stove to make a double dose of pancakes. The four of us ate the same amount I usually make for 10 people on a guided trip despite pigging out on the delicious Caribou stew Belinda made the night before. My appetite is in hyper drive with all the kayaking, moving boats and gear and until recently the cold. We left Hebron about 10 AM wishing we could have done a bit more in return for the kind hospitality we received. I am also very grateful to Noah who let us use his cabin in Hebron. Noah is an accomplished kayaker who, amongst other things, is introducing many Inuit to Kayaking and interviewing elders about Kayaking here in the past. He’s been really helpful about our trip and I hope we’ll see him again in Nain.

The hardiest mosquitoes followed us about 500 m out to sea before we lost them. We paddled into the same light headwind thats marked most of our days on the East Coast. The waves barely splashed the deck apart from around a few headlands where the wind picked up. Joey told us this is the calm time of year. By August they don’t come here by boat as the seas are too rough.

The tidal range is about 2m here compared to over 10 m on the Ungava Bay side so we have to worry less about where and when to land and tidal currents. We still often have to paddle an hour or two between landing spots. We chose a small cobble beach for lunch and another wider one for our campsite. A lush Meadow, and berry laden scatt made us think we might see black bears. It wasn’t long before we saw one a bit too close. JF was sat down behind the tent, changing his trousers when he suddenly shouted “bear”. I looked around in alarm scanning for something white or black. 5 m behind JF on top off a grassy slope a curious shaggy furred black bear gazed down. JF jumped up with his trousers half on. I think my laughter scared the bear away. We were recording a Time-lapse on a GoPro that was resting on a blue dry bag. The bear had come to investigate and knocked the GoPro over. I wish it had been filming in the opposite direction. The bear retreated a bit, but wasn’t very scared of us. We shot a bear banger to make sure he didn’t hang around. Half an hour later, Frank saw a larger bear in the meadow 100 m away. And an hour later, a third one ambled around behind camp.

It rained overnight, but it’s clearing up now. I am on last bear watch and it’s nearly over. Time to get breakfast going.