Justine’s Blog

It was hard to leave the comfort and company of Blue fox lodge to push off into a wet grey windy day. Our target was the North coast of Shuyak Island, the launchpad for an 18 mile crossing to the Barren Islands. Despite a NE 30 knot forecast, we crossed the tidal Shuyak strait at close to slack water in fairly calm conditions.

Jerry had told us about a a shortcut, a narrow winding psssage through the trees that is only passable by small boats at high water on big tides. We nearly couldn’t find Skiff Pass, even though we were in the right place. It looked impossible that the sea could pass through the thick forest but as we got closer a 5 metre wide sandy passage appeared snaking away from us. We followed a trickle of water for 100 metres but we were too early and the flow ended in a 6 inch deep pool. After a 45 minute lunch, the tide had filled the sandy banks to 20 metres wide and we jumped back on and rode the salty river round blind bends, under overhanging trees and past partially submerged rocks. Sarah remarked that we were “tree kayaking instead of sea kayaking”. There was no wind and it did feel like another world. Inevitably we reached the point where the tide was flooding in from the other side and now we had to fight a river flowing against us for a mile. It didn’t matter, it was a fu n
diversion from paddling into the wind and swell if we’d gone round the NW corner of Shuyak.

Soon we were on the north coast and were back fighting the wind and waves which had both picked up from the morning. We couldn’t see more than a mile away all day and a constant wet drizzle created permanent raindrops on our noses, chins and hair. We tried to dodge the waves that were breaking over shallow rocks, throwing salt water into the mix but didn’t always manage. I wanted to push on a bit further but Sarah was getting too cold so we landed on a rocky beach which will hopefully have a great view of the Barren Islands if the mist ever lifts. We’re tucked up in our sleeping bags early hoping tomorrow’s forecast for 25 knots magically changes. Due to the strong tides here, we’ll need to leave at the crack of dawn or mid afternoon tomorrow if we are able to go but at the moment Monday looks more likely.

It’s taken us over 90 days but Homer lies less than 100 miles away. The last obstacle in between us and a successful 1400 nautical mile paddle is a 35 mile crossing to the Kenai Peninsula. Guarded by tidal rips, the Barren islands mark the halfway point. They are both a refuge – a place to shelter or camp during a long crossing, and an added danger,  a rough water magnet that accelerates the wind and the currents. Half a dozen people have warned us about how rough it can get in these islands, one friend going so far as to ask us to take an alternative route. I’m used to tidal waters in Wales, and we are fit for long crossings by now but we will treat these crossings with the respect they deserve. Unfortunately the weather forecast is throwing constant feisty NE winds at us. Today’s forecast was 40 knots, tomorrow is a bit less in the morning and 35 knots in the afternoon. It’s 20 knots after that which doesn’t provide the window we need to jump our final hurdle.

Fortunately we landed on our feet again by landing at Blue Fox Bay Lodge 2 days ago, a cluster of homemade wooden cabins run by Jerry and Colleen for the last 20 years. This is the only building for miles around, nestled into the spruce trees on a corner of Hogg island. They live here with their 2 dogs who protect them from bears that occasionally swim over. Guests come for around 50 nights a year – just the right amount for them to pay their bills but not to have to work too hard. It’s clearly a lifestyle choice for them to be here. They collect rainwater to drink and wash, they have outhouses with windows built in so you can enjoy the view, lettuce, zucchini and tomatoes grow in a canvas greenhouse and the banja (sauna) that we were treated to yesterday was a magical treat. A generator provides power when they need it but most of the time they don’t. We’ve spent 2 days here recharging batteries (literally and metaphorically) and feel refreshed and ready to battle the winds again. They just returned from a resupply in their nearest supermarket which is 80 miles away in Kodiak and the larder is full. We will leave happily with fully bellies and a memory full of fun stories. For anyone wanting to kayak in this area, they have 4 Necky kayaks for rental and they can offer food, lodgings, boat drop offs and fun tales. For those enjoying a tipple, their drinks cabinet is pretty well stocked too! Contact bluefoxbay@gmail.com

We leave here tomorrow morning to head to the north coast of Shuyak. Then we’re hoping for a weather window for long enough to cross to Kenai (in 1 or 2 days), then it’s 1 or 2 days paddle to Homer. With a bit of luck and hard work, we’ll make it in time to have a small celebration, and get back to Anchorage and get sorted in time for my flight on 16th. I’m in that interesting head space where I’m looking forward to going home but am savouring the last few days of a great adventure in an amazing wilderness. We’ve met so many interesting and kind people, had incredible encounters with wildlife and enjoyed just being alive in this wild and remarkable country.

We have had a lovely day today at the blue fox lodge with Colleen and Jerry. A relaxing banya ( wood fired sauna) mixed in with some swims in the sea felt amazing for our tired muscles. We’ve eaten lots of delicious food and even watched a film tonight. Unfortunately the weather forecast is rubbish for the next 5 days so I’m not sure when we’ll be able to cross from here to the Kenai peninsula. We will see. .. I still hope to make my flight on 16th but we need a lucky break.

“Would you like a beer?”, the boat captain shouted from his cabin. We’d been chatting to the crew from “Challenger”, one of 5 seiner boats fishing off Black Cape just after lunch. It was the first alcohol we’d sniffed for 3 weeks so we readily accepted. Despite the fact we had 10 more miles to paddle, we cracked one open and shared it. Half a can each was enough to have us laughing hysterically at our burps and feeling a bit light headed. The calm coastal paddle under grey drizzly skies was a contrast to yesterday’s bright sky and gusty winds. Today would have been a much more appropriate day for a 35 mile crossing but you only know that with hind sight.

It’s exciting to be in a new place geographically. We are only superficially seeing the Kodiak Islands but they do have a different feel. Sitka spruce trees stand proud in every available valley, hillside and hilltop. Even tiny Islands look top heavy with their sentinels standing tall. The damp woody smell is a new sensation for us, we’re used to the lush grasses and mosses of further West. Boat traffic has multiplied, we saw and heard 10 fishing boats today, when most days we see none. Gunshots rang out from the trees this morning; many loud bangs destroying the peace and I felt a bit sad that someone would be trying to kill the wonderful creatures we’ve shared a habitat with for three months. But seeing more people means we’re getting closer to the end of our journey in Homer, now less than 100 miles away.

Tonight we landed at Blue Fox bay Lodge, recommended to us by captain Billy Pepper. It’s the only building for miles around and is run by Jerry and Colleen. We landed at 6pm but couldn’t find anyone home. As we were wondering what to do, a boat came around the corner and it was Jerry and Colleen just returning from a 3 day resupply trip to Kodiak town. They invited us in and we had a great evening which started with champagne and ended with rum. They are really interesting people and we look forward to spending more time with them tomorrow since the forecast is for up to 35 knots from the east. The winds look unfavorable for three days right now so it’s a case of so near and yet so far. .. But we’ll see. Things change fast here and surely we are due a SW wind sometime soon! ?